There's a joke in my family when one of us goes on holiday.
It's that we won't come back. There's an assumption that a day before we're due
to return home there will be a cheerful phone-call followed by a flurry of
activity and before you know it, some of our belongings are being boxed up and
shoved into an attic somewhere while the rest are being shipped off halfway
round the world to meet us.
It's a legitimate concern. My parents started it back in
1968 when they traveled down from Toronto and boarded the ‘France’ from New
York Harbour bound for two years in London. The Canadian in Dad gave up after
twenty-five years or so and he went back, but my Mum is still here, nestled in
an idyllic 'black and white' village near Wales.
I was next to follow, when I went to Toronto for two weeks
holiday in 1992 and tossed my ticket into the bin at the airport at 5am on my
day of return and stayed for four years. I’d just moved out of the house I’d
been sharing with my ex-boyfriend and two friends and was bored with Birmingham
and its brutalist skyline; boxy squat grey buildings that seemed to permanently
block out the light. I was ‘in-between’ things. In-between jobs, in between
boyfriends, in between places to live, and so the attraction of Toronto's
dizzying skyline and leafy avenues seemed a lot more appealing than drab
Birmingham. I fell in love with the funky character houses and eclectic bars
and restaurants and all-night diners. It was all so interesting. I’d wander
round Chinatown where rank smells wafted up against delicious smells and stacks
of strange vegetables were piled high outside the stores. In the Italian
quarter, fat women dressed from head to toe in black chattered loudly to their
neighbours whilst doing chores on their balconies, their husbands sat on street
corners a block away playing chess and not speaking to each other. There were
gallery openings and late night gigs and warehouse parties every night, and
when I felt homesick I’d catch the ferry out to Toronto Island and stare back
at the stunning skyline and I’d remind myself that I wasn’t in Birmingham
anymore. And whatever highs or lows I might be going through, they were
definitely more appealing than the task that was waiting for me back home. The
task of sorting through the hurriedly packed boxes I'd thrown together to get
away from my ex who'd decided after we broke up that taking a cricket bat and
some eggs to my belongings was a nice way of saying goodbye. My clothes and
artwork and photos sat waiting for me in boxes in my mum’s attic feeling sorry
for themselves, all crusted with dried egg and shattered glass.
Next to follow suit was my brother, who visited me in Toronto a couple
of years later. He's still in Canada now. Then lastly, my boyfriend (an infinitely better
boyfriend then the cricket-bat-and-egg ex) and I played the stay-on-holiday-game
by taking a year-long trip to Vancouver that lasted over a decade and saw us
return, a ten year marriage and two children later.
In the cumulative fourteen years I lived abroad, there were two things
that were guaranteed to make me homesick. Architecture and words.
The
architecture is easy to understand. Canada, especially the
west coast is a new country and we have different ideas of old. I was
once late to my
cousins wedding because my uncle told me it was in an old stone church
and my
friend drove me up and down the street in his battered up car nick-named
the 'shoe' while I peered through the torrential rain
looking for an old church. Finally he pulled the soaked Shoe up in front
of a new church that
we’d driven past three times and irked, asked me if I was blind. That
was the
first time I really understood that Canadian old and European old are
not the
same thing. And I like European old, with foot steps worn into stone
staircases, crumbling gargoyles and beams so low you whack your head
when you stand up straight.
And then there were words. I guess that all languages have their
own special words, and just because you speak English, it doesn’t mean you
speak the same English.
Hell, you only have to go a mile down the road in Britain to find a
strange new dialect or a different use for a word you thought you knew.
So five-thousand miles across the world I'd find that every
time I came across a word, more specifically a Briticism that my
Canadian friends didn’t know, the same thing would happen: a few moments
of confusion, a couple of questions, an explanation and perhaps some
laughter. But then I’d
find myself wistful and dreaming of home.
Here’s a list of examples:
Mog
Chuffed
Knackered
Tosser
Whinge
Aubergine
Courgette
Nosh
Faff
Cob
So on that
last-holiday-that-turned-permanent, we’d been in Canada for about seven years
and were on our way back from a weekend in Seattle. I was listening to Belle
& Sebastian’s If You’re Feeling
Sinister, a favourite of mine that I hadn’t listened to for a long time. I
got to the chirpy Get Me Away From Here I’m
Dying and these lines jumped out at me:
Oh, that wasn't what I meant to say at all,
From where I'm sitting, rain,
Washing against the lonely tenement,
Has set my mind to wander…
I hadn’t heard the word tenement for
a long time and there was this painful tug deep down within me and I knew, in that
exact moment, that I couldn’t live the rest of my life in Canada. My eyes
welled up and I felt like I couldn’t breathe because suddenly the stunning
wilderness and wild ocean and remote beaches and tall, tall redwoods and the west
coast islands and breath-taking glass towers of Vancouver….well, they just
weren’t home.
So yeah, there’s a joke in my family about going on holidays but
none of us quite knows what the punch line is yet.
1) I went to Toronto when I was 20 and never wanted to return. It's still my intention to live there some day - I am so envious that you did.
ReplyDelete2) Being Scottish living in England sometimes gives the same pang for language. So many words I didn't know were Glaswegian until I lived down here. For example, a splinter in Scotland is a 'skelf' and any sort of liquid that you drink is 'juice' - so you'd call a can of Coke a can of 'juice'. It only takes three days in Scotland to knock all the nostalgic stuffing out of me though...
3) I really like your writing, although I see it's been a while since you posted anything. I'm looking forward to going through the archives for now.
4) 'Tenement' is a great word, and one of the things I miss most about the motherland is living in them.